Written by Martin Banks, EU Correspondent
Brits love a bit of history and they are the most frequent visitors to the site of one of Belgium’s most famous military battles – Wellington’s victory over Napoleon.
The site, just outside the town of Waterloo in Belgium, is well worth a visit at any time of year, including over the festive season.
If you happen to find yourself in the area you would also do well to explore Waterloo itself which also has a museum dedicated to the famous battle of Waterloo.
Right at the heart of the small town is another “must do” – a visit to Thierry Vanholsbeek’s restaurant.
He has an impressive CV which includes being, at the tender age of 22, the youngest head waiter at a 5-star hotel in Brussels.
Since he took over at Momo la Crevette, an acclaimed fish restaurant in Waterloo the restaurant has come through the crippling impact of the health pandemic and an economic crisis and has put itself on the culinary map, not just in Waterloo but much further afield.
The “theme” – as the name might suggest – is about shrimps. In fact, there more than ten different kinds of ways they are served by Thierry and his team.
Arguably, the big difference at Momo compared with other such places is the variety of countries where its crevettes are sourced from.
They include Vietnam, China, Taiwan, Bangladesh, Madagascar, Japan and Argentina.
The key to their freshness, though, is the way they are transported from such far-flung places and then treated.
As soon as the shrimps are caught they’re immediately frozen at -180 degrees and kept at that temperature until the moment they arrive at Thierry’s restaurant.
They are then defrosted – but only in stages so as to maintain ultimate freshness.
The only shrimps not treated in such a way are those from, obviously, Belgium and also Madagascar (which has daily flights here).
But if they are popular so too is the bouillabaisse which is cooked by the same principle as the famous version in the south of France but, here, is more of a soup than a stew – just the thing for those cold winter days.
Another customer favourite, especially at this time of the year, is the choucroute (the “legendary” seafood sauerkraut).
Starters include seared scallops and oriental-style scampi casserole while mains feature cod fillet, served with smoked herring roe. Also look out for some super sole (grilled or with meuniere) and tasty tuna tagliatelle, served with rosemary potatoes and truffled sauce. The 11 different types of shrimps include a blue shrimp from a UNESCO heritage site in faraway New Caledonia where they are raised in the “world’s largest lagoon.”
Aside from the delicious starters and mains, the deserts and wonderful wine card is equally impressive.
The fish arrives here twice a day, at 10am for the lunch service and then again at 4pm for the evening.
The lunch menu, from Monday to Friday only (noon-1.15pm) features a dish of the day for just €19 plus a 2-course offering at €28pp and 3-course one at €38. Details of what will be served at lunch on any one day can be found on the resto’s website but it is all excellent value for money.
If you are able and willing to really push the boat out you might be tempted by the imperial caviar box, oyster platter or trio of crystal, Madagascar and Nobashi shrimp.
Over the Christmas period the resto is closed on 24 and 25 December and also 30 and 31 December but there is a very tempting takeaway service available over the festive season.
Thierry, in just over one year, will celebrate the tenth anniversary of taking over this splendid restaurant but there is one link with the past that still remains: the sous chef Nasser who has been here some 18 years. Patrick and Patrice are among other hard working staff here.
Thierry himself learned his trade at a renowned hotel catering school in Namur, one of the best in Belgium, followed by a couple of years studying wine before moving into the culinary business.
He credits his father with the all important managerial skills that he has invested in running his restaurant in Waterloo and also his newer one in nearby Genappe.
But the “big secret” of his success at the restaurant, he says, is good old fashioned “freshness”, citing those daily deliveries of fish.
This is clearly seen in the plate that arrives on the table in this lovely, atmospheric little restaurant, located at the heart of Waterloo which, as can be seen, is well worth a visit, whether you are local or visiting from the UK.
Momo la Crevette
Chaussee de Bruxelles 202, Waterloo
02 351 2100